Tennis Equipment

Choosing a Tennis Racket

The racket is the single most important piece of tennis equipment. The wrong racket can ingrain bad habits and cause injury; the right one amplifies your strengths. Here's what the numbers mean.

Head Size

Head size is measured in square inches. It directly affects the size of the sweet spot (the central area of the stringbed that produces the best results).

Recommendation for beginners: Start with a mid-plus (98–104 sq in). It forgives off-centre hits while still letting you develop proper technique.

Racket Weight

Racket weight is typically listed unstrung. Most modern rackets range from 255g (9 oz) to 340g (12 oz).

• Lighter (under 280g): Easier to swing, faster arm speed — good for beginners and seniors. Less stability on contact.
• Medium (280–310g): The sweet spot for most club players. Enough mass for stability, light enough for manoeuvring.
• Heavy (310g+): More plow-through and stability — preferred by advanced players. Requires technique and fitness.

Balance Point

Balance is described relative to the midpoint of the racket (the "even balance" point is at 320mm for a standard 27" frame).

• Head-heavy: More power on groundstrokes; heavier feel in the swing. Popular with baseliners.
• Head-light: More manoeuvrability at net; preferred by serve-and-volleyers.
• Even balance: Versatile all-court racket.

String Pattern

The string pattern is expressed as mains × crosses (e.g., 16×19).

• Open pattern (16×19, 16×18): More spin potential; strings move and snap back more easily. Strings wear faster.
• Dense pattern (18×20): More control and durability; less spin. Preferred by flat hitters.

Tennis Strings

Strings matter as much as the racket frame. They directly affect power, control, comfort, and spin. There are four main categories.

String Tension

String tension is measured in pounds (lbs) or kilograms (kg). Most rackets have a recommended tension range printed on the frame (typically 50–60 lbs).

• Lower tension (below 50 lbs): More power, larger effective sweet spot. Strings have more elasticity.
• Higher tension (above 58 lbs): More control, reduced power. Strings deflect less.

Rule of thumb: Start in the middle of your racket's recommended range. Go up if your shots land long; go down if you're hitting short.

Tennis Shoes

Tennis shoes are not the same as running shoes. They're engineered for lateral (side-to-side) movement, sudden stops, and repetitive impact. Using the wrong footwear increases injury risk significantly.

Court-Specific Outsoles

Fitting Your Tennis Shoes

• Fit should be snug (not tight) across the midfoot with about a thumb's width of space at the toe.
• Look for reinforced toe caps — you'll drag your back foot on serves.
• Lateral stability features (support around the ankle) prevent ankle rolls on quick direction changes.
• Replace shoes every 45–60 hours of play — the midsole cushioning compresses before the outsole visibly wears.

Tennis Balls

Not all tennis balls are the same. For recreational play, the difference is minimal — but knowing the types helps when choosing balls for your surface or conditions.

Ball Types

• Pressurised balls: Standard ball used in professional play. Air inside the core creates firmness. They lose pressure (and bounce) after 2–4 weeks of regular play, whether opened or not.
• Pressureless balls: Solid rubber core. They don't lose pressure, but feel heavier. Last much longer — good for practice machines and teaching.
• Low-compression balls (Stage 1/2/3): Softer, slower balls for juniors and beginners. ITF and WTA junior development programs use a staged ball system to make learning easier.
• High-altitude balls: Used in cities above 1,200m (like Mexico City or Bogotá). The thinner air means standard balls travel faster; high-altitude balls have a slightly lower internal pressure to compensate.

Grips and Overgrips

The grip is your only point of contact with the racket. It affects feel, control, and injury prevention.

Grip Size

Grip size is measured in inches (4 0/8 through 4 7/8) or EU sizes (L0–L5). Finding the right size:

• Hold the racket in an Eastern forehand grip. Slide your index finger of the other hand between your palm and fingers. You should have exactly one finger's width of space — not more, not less.
• Too small: Grip rotates in your hand; wrist strain increases.
• Too large: Difficult to snap the wrist; reduces spin and serve kick.

You can always build up a grip size with an overgrip (+1/16 inch per wrap).

Overgrips

Overgrips wrap over the base grip. Replace them every 6–10 hours of play (sooner in hot/humid conditions). They're an inexpensive consumable that dramatically affects racket feel. Choose tacky (better in cool, dry conditions) or absorbent (better in hot, humid conditions).

Other Equipment

Dampeners

Small rubber pieces inserted in the string bed to reduce the "ping" vibration sound. They slightly alter feel but have no significant effect on power or arm vibration. Personal preference — roughly 40% of pros use them, 60% don't.

Tennis Bag

A bag that holds 2–6 rackets is standard for club players. Thermal lining protects strings from extreme heat (never leave a strung racket in a hot car — heat degrades string tension rapidly). A separate wet/dry compartment is useful for shoes and clothing.

Wristbands and Headbands

Functional, not merely decorative. Wristbands absorb sweat before it reaches the grip hand. A headband prevents sweat from dripping into your eyes at critical moments. Both should be cotton or a quick-dry synthetic blend.

Training Aids

• Ball hopper: Holds 50–75 balls for practice sessions without constant pickup.
• Ball machine: Fires balls at adjustable speed and spin. Excellent for drilling specific shots alone.
• Rebound net: Solo practice tool — hit against a net that returns the ball.
• Vibration dampener tester: Simple grip-size measurement tool available at most tennis shops.

The Beginner's Starter Kit

If you're just starting out, here's a practical minimum to get on court: